RETROSPECTS 2020 - #9

Feral horses, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, south unit

In 2020 was our second visit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. We already fell in love with this landscape and its wildlife five years earlier and wanted to go back again. Each unit of the park has something special to offer. One of the animals to look for in the south unit are the feral horses. You probably will find some of them if you have enough time on hand, but getting close enough for a photo is not always guaranteed. In 2015 we had a couple brief moments but last September we were able to spend more time with these beautiful feral horses. Lots of moments were captured but the ones that tell the story about their social ties stand out for me.

THE BISON BELOW

American Bison, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, September 2020

You can tell, this bison has fought a few battles during the mating season, which takes place from late July to August. I was actually looking for some Mule Deer near a trailhead in Roosevelt National Park when suddenly this bull showed up. He disappeared into a small canyon and this allowed me to place the tripod near the edge and make a few clicks from above of the grazing bison. Keeping a safe distance to these large animals is important, not just during the mating season, and no photo is worth risking the life of an animal or your own.

NATURE CLICKS #476 - BIGHORN SHEEP

Bighorn Sheep, Roosevelt National Park, North Unit

Joan and I were happy to watch and photograph Bighorn Sheep in the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park again. During our first visit in 2015 a ranger told us, you will be very lucky if you can find the Bighorn Sheep. They spend most of their time in the canyons of this badlands area and therefor not easy to spot.

Well, this year we found a splendid ram and four ewes grazing on the grassy slope above a canyon. We spent about 20 minutes with the bighorn sheep before they disappeared into the valley. Enough time to work with these amazing critters…

Male bighorns can be dangerous and are able to kill a human if threatened, so maintaining a safe distance is a good idea. There was a small ravine between my tripod and the animals and I felt safe to be that close. The first image is uncropped and gives you an idea about the real world at 600 mm focal length, while the second photo didn’t have a very interesting background, just plain grass, and I felt a slight crop would benefit the outcome. The sheep gave us a look ones in a while but most of the time just ignored us and that is always a good thing if you are close to a wild animal.

NATURE CLICKS #474 - ROCK WREN (FIRST SIGHTING)

Rock Wren, Little Missouri National Grasslands, North Dakota, September 2020

It has been two months already since we enjoyed the sighting of a Rock Wren, which was the first time ever that we saw this tiny bird. We had the remote Wannagan Campground, located just west of the border to Theodore Roosevelt National Park, for ourselves and it allowed me to walk around with camera and tripod wherever I wanted to and without disturbing other campers. Actually I was after some Mountain Bluebirds (Click HERE for a picture I took earlier that day) but when an unknown bird call sounded from some nearby rocks, my attention shifted immediately.

The Rock Wren lives in the western part of the US and southwest Canada and the location we found it is pretty much at the eastern border of its range. I just read that male Rock Wrens can have a large repertoire of more than 100 song types. I think that’s remarkable! This bird is not known to drink water, but gets the liquid it needs from food. Their diet consists insects and spiders and they hunt for them between and around rocks. Winters are pretty cold up in North Dakota and the Rock Wren migrates to the warmer regions in the southwest of the US and to Mexico.

Photographically not all wishes became true. The topography of this location did not allow  to get closer with the tripod and so I applied a crop to both photos. The location itself was perfect. Having a Rock Wren on top of a rock, surrounded by some grass stems and sage brush, tells a great story about its habitat in the badlands of North Dakota.

MOON AND CLOUDS IN MOTION

Moon light and clouds over Little Missouri National Grassland, North Dakota

Most nights during our trip out west we had moon light giving the landscape some shape. That was great and led to opportunities for night photography. The downside, as everybody knows, is making the Milky Way the subject of an image, this was not an option, except for the days at the end of the trip.

We had this National Forest campsite just outside of Theodore Roosevelt National Park almost for ourselves. When the moon light touched the fence, that was there to keep the cattle out, and clouds moved fast across the sky, I tried a 69 second exposure to make the dynamic in the sky visible. The light reflected by the fence leads into the picture. The stars show already a little trail. I have more photos with shorter exposure time and blending two pictures together would be an option, but I still like how this turned out.

NATURE CLICKS #469 - AMERICAN KESTREL

Female American Kestrel, Little Missouri National Grasslands, North Dakota

Here in eastern Iowa the American Kestrel can be found even during winter. Up in the northwest part of North Dakota the kestrel migrates south for the cold season. The picture was made just a few miles south of Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s North Unit. Whenever possible, most wildlife photographers try to keep the human made elements out of the frame. This is quite difficult with the American Kestrel because 90 percent of the time I find them perching on an electrical power line. This gives you no sense of location and who really loves these “wire shots”?

This female American Kestrel posed nicely on a bale of hey in a field beside the gravel road. Sure, this is a human made thing, but the difference to the “unknown wire” is that a bale of hey gives you a sense of location. Yes, grassland, fields, and prairie are preferred habitats for this bird. During summer time large insects, like grasshoppers, are their main diet, while during winter months small mammals, birds, and amphibians are on the menu.

FOLLOWING ROOSEVELT’S TRACKS

Near the Elkhorn Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota

I have always said I never would have been President if it had not been for my experiences in North Dakota. - Theodore Roosevelt, 1918

This photo was created not far from the Elkhorn Ranch, President Theodore Roosevelt’s ranch in North Dakota. Today this historic ground is a small part of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, called the Elkhorn Unit. 1884 Roosevelt moved to North Dakota and became a cattle rancher after he was devastated by personal tragedy and owned land on both sides of the Little Missouri River. He credited his Dakota experience as the basis for his ground-breaking preservation efforts and the shaping of his own character. Under his presidency (1901-09) 18 national monuments were proclaimed and he worked with congress to create 5 national parks, 150 national forests, and dozens of federal reserves - over 230 million acres of protected land. (source: National Park Service brochure)

It was a gorgeous but windy day when we visited this part of the Little Missouri Valley. Some things had probably not changed much since Roosevelt rode his horse along the river. The beauty of the surrounding North Dakota badlands and the great skies we were able to see are certainly among them.

The clouds over the valley moved fast and the questions was how to incorporate them into the story about this valley? Going wide, or going tall? Well, I wasn’t sure, as so often, and tried both. I finally decided for the tall orientation. It shows less of the valley and less of the clouds, but gives a better idea about the vastness of the landscape with the wind-beaten grass and sage in the foreground.

Nikon D750, Nikkor 16-35mm / f4, B+W F-PRO Kaesemann High Transmission Circular Polarizer MRC filter,   @ 16 mm, 1/320s, f/11, ISO200,

WE ONLY CAN IMAGINE…

American Bison along South Fork Sage Creek, Badlands National Park, South Dakota

We only can imagine how it was when more than 60 million of American Bison once roamed on the plaines and grasslands of North America in search for the best places to feed and to survive the impact of the weather. Today only a number of about 31,000 wild bison can be found, maintained mainly by National or State Parks.

We always know that we have arrived in the west when we see the herd of bison in Badlands National Park, South Dakota again. This time it was very special. While dinner time was already over we sat in our camping chairs and watched them across Sage Creek moving up the valley. With the setting sun in our back the light was gorgeous .

Theodore Roosevelt National Park, South Unit, North Dakota

It was quite windy five days later up in North Dakota when we saw a smaller herd in Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The bison had retrieved into a small side valley but we were able to park the car safely and tried to get some shots of these majestic animals.

Both photos: Nikon D750, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S, @ 600 mm,

THE FERAL HORSES

Feral horses, South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota

While driving on the Scenic Loop Drive in the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park many visitors try to see the feral horses that live in the park. Sometimes you can watch quite a few of them and sometimes you may not be lucky at all. We spent a little time with parts of the herd again this year. Feral horses are fun to watch and there is a good chance you get carried away and make way too many clicks (oh, is there such a thing like too many clicks…? 😉).

Of course you make your safety shots that will serve as a memory, but you want to make that picture that sets it apart from the rest. I’m talking about the photo that includes a nice gesture, a background that tells the story about location, and maybe a soft light, which is not always guaranteed. The horses often stood very close together and that’s nice, but I tried to find a position with the camera where I could separate individual animals, or like in this photo a foal with its mother.

Nikon D750, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S, Induro GIT 404XL tripod, Induro GHB2 gimbal head,    @600 mm, 1/1600 s, f/6.3, ISO400

EVERYTHING CAN WAIT

Sky after sunset, Little Missouri National Grassland, North Dakota

I promised you a few big skies we watched during our trip through the badlands of the Dakotas and Montana. Back in camp, after spending another day in and around the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, it was time to relax, but with a sky like this everything else can wait…

I exposed strictly for the vibrant sky, knowing I can pull back the shadows in the foreground a little bit in post process if I wanted to. Finally I decided for the silhouette, making the sky the only thing the eye wants to go in this image.

Nikon D750, Nikkor 70-200mm / f4,  @70 mm, 1/400s, f/5.6, ISO200

NATURE CLICKS #468 - MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRD

Mountain Bluebird, Little Missouri National Grassland, North Dakota

In many locations we camped or visited during our trip there was a good chance to watch some Mountain Bluebirds. Quite often they forage from a perch, like a fence, twig, or rock. They drop down to the ground to catch insects but they also hover above their prey before they make a catch. Beside insects the bluebird takes also fruits and berries.

They like to keep their distance and many photos of Mountain Bluebirds I made during previous years had to be cropped. This female was perched on a young eastern cedar in our campground, just outside of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota. The light was soft and the background far away, ideal for such an image.

Nikon D750, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S, @ 600 mm, 1/160 s, f/6.3, ISO250

GRASSLANDS, BADLANDS, AND BIG SKY

Sky after sunset just outside of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota

Hi, we are back from a trip to the Grasslands and Badlands that stretch from South Dakota  into North Dakota and eastern Montana. Our tent was pitched most of the time in remote locations with no or very few people around, making social distancing easy. We watched lots of wildlife, small and big, and enjoyed some “Big Sky”. As time allows I will post some photos that hopefully tell stories about all this during the next few weeks and I’m glad if you find the time again to stop in here in my blog to read about nature and photography.

IN ANTICIPATION

Little Missouri River, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota, 2015

In anticipation of our upcoming vacation later this week we are stacking camping gear, food, and photo equipment already. Yes, we will return to “Big Sky Country” again. Part of my preparation is to look at older images from previous trips. What did I learn from mistakes in the past, what do I want to photograph at locations where we have been before, and what new challenges can be mastered? Lots of questions going through my head. We know, some great landscapes wait for us again and there is no trip that includes South and North Dakota or Montana without really good wildlife watching.

This photo is from our trip in 2015 to Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota, a place we certainly like to visit again. I usually take a break from posting here in the blog but I hope you check in again and stay tuned.