FALL COLORS AND LIGHT


Hard to believe that was already a week ago. The Dubuque Camera Club had invited to a little photo walk at Eagle Point Park in Dubuque, Iowa. The park is high up on the bluffs above the Mississippi River and lock & dam #11. It is tempting to shoot only the great vista across the river, but with the low sitting afternoon sun I thought the fall details in the park deserved our attention as well. There is a small pond, built from big limestone rocks and that’s where I found the most inspiration.

It was an afternoon well spent, with good conversation and I can’t imagine that anybody who participated didn’t have fun shooting the colors and light of autumn.

FALL COLORS - NORTHEAST IOWA AT ITS BEST


Turkey River, near Motor Mill, Iowa

The five photos I show you today don’t need a lot of text. Gorgeous weather and fall colors probably at their peak last weekend in Northeast Iowa. We pitched the tent for a night at Motor Mill along the Turkey River. Finding the colors wasn’t the problem, finding a way to let the light tell the story is the challenge that is left to us…

As always, a click on each photo gives you an enlarged view.

CANNONBALL CONCRETIONS


Cannonball Concretions, Theodore Roosevelt NP, North Dakota

There are many stunning geological features in the badland areas of Montana, South and North Dakota. One that nobody should miss while visiting the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park is Cannonball Concretions.

Here is my tip: If you visit the National Park, go to the Cannonball Concretions pull-out any time during the day. Explore the area, read and learn about the cannonball concretions on educational displays, take your selfie pictures or try to find a critter, and just have fun being there. However, come back for your serious photography of these fascinating geological features about an hour before sunset, when the slope and concretions reveal their colors and shades become almost horizontal.

You’ll find endless photo opportunities and even after several visits you probably discover shapes and structures you may have missed before. It is quiet, it is peaceful, and if you are able to disconnect for a moment from the rush of the modern world , you may start to understand why places like this had always a special meaning for Native people, long before the land was taken away from them.

FOLLOWING ROOSEVELT’S TRACKS


Near the Elkhorn Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota

I have always said I never would have been President if it had not been for my experiences in North Dakota. - Theodore Roosevelt, 1918

This photo was created not far from the Elkhorn Ranch, President Theodore Roosevelt’s ranch in North Dakota. Today this historic ground is a small part of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, called the Elkhorn Unit. 1884 Roosevelt moved to North Dakota and became a cattle rancher after he was devastated by personal tragedy and owned land on both sides of the Little Missouri River. He credited his Dakota experience as the basis for his ground-breaking preservation efforts and the shaping of his own character. Under his presidency (1901-09) 18 national monuments were proclaimed and he worked with congress to create 5 national parks, 150 national forests, and dozens of federal reserves - over 230 million acres of protected land. (source: National Park Service brochure)

It was a gorgeous but windy day when we visited this part of the Little Missouri Valley. Some things had probably not changed much since Roosevelt rode his horse along the river. The beauty of the surrounding North Dakota badlands and the great skies we were able to see are certainly among them.

The clouds over the valley moved fast and the questions was how to incorporate them into the story about this valley? Going wide, or going tall? Well, I wasn’t sure, as so often, and tried both. I finally decided for the tall orientation. It shows less of the valley and less of the clouds, but gives a better idea about the vastness of the landscape with the wind-beaten grass and sage in the foreground.

Nikon D750, Nikkor 16-35mm / f4, B+W F-PRO Kaesemann High Transmission Circular Polarizer MRC filter,   @ 16 mm, 1/320s, f/11, ISO200,

MISSISSIPPI RIVER STORIES 2020 #7 - RAINBOW BEFORE SUNSET


Mississippi River, Mud Lake, Iowa

Visiting the Mississippi River during the hour before sunset can always lead to a good surprise. A couple days ago we took our dog Cooper down to Mud Lake, one of his (and our) favorite places. The rain cloud you see in the second image moved in quickly from the northwest. The rain drops started falling and we rushed back to the car. Suddenly a full fledged rainbow appeared right over the big river. Who cares about a few drops, but the dilemma was that I had the Nikkor 70-200, f/4 on camera, too long to capture the full rainbow while it lasted. The compromise was to shoot one end in tall orientation as you see it here. 

I was hoping for more, ran back to the car and changed lenses quickly. The Nikkor 16-35, f/4 has everything what it needs for a full rainbow, but the cloud had moved on to the southeast and with it what was left of the rainbow. Still one of the occurrences that will be remembered on the positive side for this crazy year…

THE WINKING MOUNTAIN


Badlands National Park, South Dakota

There are moments when the light unfolds in front of the lens where I clearly know that the final photo will be a black & white version. Not necessarily because the lack of colors, but indeed because of its graphic impact. This is true in particular if the landscape of so called badlands is your subject. Look at the mountain, hit by the bright light. Can you see how it talks, one eye open and the other one winking at us? OK, I admit I didn’t see that detail when I took the picture, but I saw seven different plains between foreground and sky, each of them in a different light, and that got me all excited to make the click.

EVERYTHING CAN WAIT


Sky after sunset, Little Missouri National Grassland, North Dakota

I promised you a few big skies we watched during our trip through the badlands of the Dakotas and Montana. Back in camp, after spending another day in and around the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, it was time to relax, but with a sky like this everything else can wait…

I exposed strictly for the vibrant sky, knowing I can pull back the shadows in the foreground a little bit in post process if I wanted to. Finally I decided for the silhouette, making the sky the only thing the eye wants to go in this image.

Nikon D750, Nikkor 70-200mm / f4,  @70 mm, 1/400s, f/5.6, ISO200

THE CASTLES


We discovered this little gem in the northwest corner of South Dakota already five years ago and had it on our list of places we wanted to revisit since. 

Castles National Landmark is located in the Slim Buttes land unit in South Dakota. The Castles are a massive sandstone remnant which originated as a volcanic ash deposit and resemble a medieval castle. (source: USDA - Forest Service)

This time we camped at this location and that gave us the chance to photograph these interesting rock formations during day light and of course during a wonderful sunset. As a bonus the moon was up already and made it worth to be included in some of the photos.

WITH A SMILE


Badlands National Park, South Dakota

We stood many times before in front of this almost alpine looking part of Badlands National Park in South Dakota. It is usually difficult to come back with a decent photo of this view at late morning during the summer. The pale slopes and a certain haziness in the air made it most of the time not a prime spot that reveals its beauty easily.

At this day near the end of August an overcast softened the harsh impact of the sun and a few gaps between the clouds created a good chance for some spotlight on the mountain slopes. Suddenly the play of light and shadows made the depth of up to ten levels between the hills in the foreground and the sky visible. It lasted only a few seconds. I went back to the car with a smile on my face…

Nikon D750, Nikkor 70-200mm / f4, B+W F-PRO Kaesemann High Transmission Circular Polarizer MRC filter,   @135 mm, 1/320 s, f/8, ISO100

GRASSLANDS, BADLANDS, AND BIG SKY


Sky after sunset just outside of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota

Hi, we are back from a trip to the Grasslands and Badlands that stretch from South Dakota  into North Dakota and eastern Montana. Our tent was pitched most of the time in remote locations with no or very few people around, making social distancing easy. We watched lots of wildlife, small and big, and enjoyed some “Big Sky”. As time allows I will post some photos that hopefully tell stories about all this during the next few weeks and I’m glad if you find the time again to stop in here in my blog to read about nature and photography.

IN ANTICIPATION


Little Missouri River, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota, 2015

In anticipation of our upcoming vacation later this week we are stacking camping gear, food, and photo equipment already. Yes, we will return to “Big Sky Country” again. Part of my preparation is to look at older images from previous trips. What did I learn from mistakes in the past, what do I want to photograph at locations where we have been before, and what new challenges can be mastered? Lots of questions going through my head. We know, some great landscapes wait for us again and there is no trip that includes South and North Dakota or Montana without really good wildlife watching.

This photo is from our trip in 2015 to Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota, a place we certainly like to visit again. I usually take a break from posting here in the blog but I hope you check in again and stay tuned.

ATTENTION TO THE HIGHLIGHTS


Creek, Bankston County Park, Iowa

Same location as in yesterday’s blog post. I looked for beauty at the river valley and tried to work towards a fine art print. The photo is underexposed by one f-stop to hide more of the clutter in the river bed. When the picture is framed in the viewfinder it is important to watch the highlights in the water in order to anticipate the results. This of course has to be done before the 10-stop ND filter is attached to the lens because it is so dark, you can’t see much through it in an environment that is not very bright. With flowing water no two images are alike. This requires some patience to obtain the desired outcome. At the same time it is interesting and has a learning curve, but is also a relaxing and calming process.

Nikon D750, Nikkor 70-200mm / f4, Breakthrough X4 ND filter (10-stop), GITZO tripod GT2931 Basalt, KIRK BH-3 ball head, VELLO wired remote switch,  @200 mm, 13 s, f/11, ISO100

AT THE BOTTOM OF THE VALLEY


Little cascade, Bankston County Park, Eastern Iowa

I still try to reveal the possibilities of the new Breakthrough X4 10-stop ND filter. Our dog Cooper and us always love to visit Bankston County Park, with its cold creek running through the valley on a bed of ancient limestone rocks. Little cascades are an ideal subject for long time exposures and if the light coming through the dense canopy of the trees hits the right spots, you may find the photo that was on your mind.

Nikon D750, Nikkor 70-200mm / f4, Breakthrough X4 ND filter (10-stop), GITZO tripod GT2931 Basalt, KIRK BH-3 ball head, VELLO wired remote switch,  @200 mm, 26 s, f/11, ISO200

GEAR TALK: BREAKTHROUGH X4 10-STOP ND FILTER


Mississippi River, Julian Dubuque Bridge, Iowa / Illinois

A new tool arrived by mail and I was eager to try it out. A 10-stop X4 neutral density filter, made by Breakthrough Photography in San Francisco, CA, was put in front of the Nikkor 16-35, f/4 lens today. I have three of their filters already in my bag and I really love the optical quality. They are much better than any ND or GND filters I have tried before. So why a 10-stop ND filter? Think of blurring waterfalls or smoothing flowing water, as in today’s photo. Not to forget clouds, one of the main reasons I wanted the big stopper.

In my presentations about storytelling in wildlife photography I emphasize how important it is to try out new photo gear in your backyard at home and to become familiar with a new piece of equipment. In my case, that doesn’t always work well for landscape photography, because we live in the woods and are surrounded by trees. But going to local places, where I have shot before and know the location good enough to make a judgement and learn how to use the new tool, is a proven way.

The Julian Dubuque Bridge, that connects Iowa and Illinois across the Mississippi River in Dubuque, has been in the viewfinder quite a few times. We had some nice puffy clouds this evening and I wanted to see how clouds and the water of the big river would turn out with this new 10-stop Breakthrough X4 ND filter. I was at the bridge between 6PM and 6:30PM and for some warmer light I could have waited a little longer. But I knew the remaining clouds would have dissolved pretty soon and I really wanted the clouds for my tests.

For the picture above the meter in camera for the test shots, measured without filter, showed 1/40s at f/20 and ISO100. The app on my phone for calculation of the correct exposure time with ND filter is NDTimer. It suggested 12 seconds and I usually take it slightly higher, so the scene was exposed for 13 seconds. Long enough to hide any truck or car that crossed the bridge and two white speed boats in the background were rendered as just a couple pale stripes on the water. In some other shots, where the boats were closer, I used even 25 seconds exposure time at ISO50. The boats were not even visible in the frame.

The speed of the clouds above the bridge was not very high, but they got blurred around the bridge, while the ones in the background had less movement due to the perspective. I like the way the flowing water of the mighty Mississippi turned out. Sure, there is a lot room for improvement, but I’m again impressed how this filter renders the colors.

As you know, I’m not getting paid by anybody for mentioning gear I use or like and there is no difference with the products of Breakthrough Photography. Their website says: 

Breakthrough Photography is a filter research and manufacturing company that designs, manufactures and sells the worlds sharpest and most color neutral ND, UV and CPL filters to over 180+ countries.

Funding Received $760,000 during 3 Kickstarter campaigns

I don’t give a damn about statements like that until I experience what they promise. Here is a word about my little experience that goes beyond the quality of their filters. Yes, I like their filters, the quality how they render the colors and the way they are packed in good fitting and well marked pouches, each of them with a high quality cleaning cloth. So far so good, they are not cheap, but the products are worth the investment.

I lost a few days ago a couple tiny parts from the X100 filter holder (my fault), emailed the service department of Breakthrough and received within less than 24 hours during the weekend a response that spare parts are on their way without any charge. They are not here yet, probably due to the current problems with the US postal service, but for all these reasons I like to mention BREAKTHROUGH PHOTOGRAPHY products and service more than once in my blog post!

MISSISSIPPI RIVER STORIES 2020 #5 - MAKING SPEED VISIBLE


Wisconsin bridge, Mississippi River, Dubuque, Iowa

Dubuque has three bridges across the Mississippi River. The photo shows the highway bridge to the state of Wisconsin. The two other ones, connecting Iowa and Illinois, have been in my viewfinder quite often in the past. This one not so much. I went there last weekend to practice and experiment again with my graduated neutral density filters. Our vacation trip is coming up later this month and I like to be prepared for some new landscape explorations.

A lot of traffic on the river, with most boats slowly cruising and people enjoying a hot and sunny evening. We know there is always an exception and the approach of this very fast speed boat was announced by its roaring engine well before it came in sight.

I wasn’t interested in the details of the boat but wanted a long exposure to have a blurred trail, making the speed somehow visible to the viewer, while bridge and even background remain sharp. The darker part of the 3-stop GND filter was pushed all the way down in the filter holder to cover more of the frame, ISO 50 prolonged the exposure time a little more, and by using an aperture of f/20 I ended up with 1/4 of a second. Needless to say that the camera was on a tripod and focus was obtained manually by pre-focussing on the center of the bridge. The water in the foreground had some turbulences that were slightly blurred in the photo, making it a bit more interesting without distracting too much.

Nikon D750, Nikkor 24-120mm / f4, B+W F-PRO Kaesemann High Transmission Circular Polarizer MRC filter, Breakthrough X4 3-stop soft GND filter, Induro GIT 404XL tripod, RRS BH-55 ball head, Vello cable release,   @ 66 mm, 1/4 s, f/20, ISO50, manual focus