THE ESSENCE

Sand ripples, White Sands National Park, New Mexico

It is easy to get carried away by colors, shapes and details, or the beautiful vistas of a landscape as we can find it in White Sands National Park, New Mexico during a first visit. Sure, I make my good share of documentary shots, like any other tourist, but at the end of the day I’m always asking myself, what did I miss, what is the story that can be embedded into a piece of photography art? Having this in mind while going back to a location another day always helps to get a little bit closer to an answer and maybe to a result that gives more satisfaction than anything captured during the first visit.

I know, many viewers today can’t find anything in a black & white photo anymore, but for me it often boils down to the KISS acronym, keep it simple stupid. The wind shaped dunes are always in motion, shadows can be different from one moment to the next in the ever changing light. What more do I need to photograph the essence of White Sands?

ON THE LEARNING CURVE

Nikon Z6II, Nikkor Z 24-70, f/4 S lens  @ 66mm, 1/10s, f/8, ISO 1000, handheld

When I work on pictures like the one above there is usually one out of two reasons behind it. It is either testing a new piece of gear that made it into the camera bag or I try to learn about a new post-processing technique or software feature. At this time it was for both reasons.

Let me start with the gear. I finally made the step into the mirrorless camera world with the purchase of a Nikon Z6II camera with the fantastic Nikkor Z 24-70, f/4 S lens. In addition the Nikon FTZ adapter allows to use all my older F-mount lenses on the new Z-mount of the mirrorless camera. Circumstances of the purchase were in my favor (I traded some older lenses in) and so it is an early Christmas gift that gives me now the chance to test and learn about the new equipment ahead of the holiday.

On the software side, Adobe had introduced new masking features to Lightroom and Camera RAW in their latest update. I’m familiar with masking techniques in Photoshop but having some of them now available in the RAW editor (like Lightroom) makes it for many photographers less time consuming and easier to do selective editing in their images. So far I like it a lot and trying it out with photos from a new camera doubles the fun.

I provide quite often operator training on machines in the print & finishing industry and I know from experience many people do not like to read manuals. As a result, some will never get to the full potential the equipment has to offer. I try to be not that person and work my way through the manual with a new camera. Even if many things are the same or at least similar on a Nikon camera, I think it is about mastering the new features that come with improved technology. New focus modes, higher shooting speed, better high ISO handling, and an Electronic Viewfinder (EVF) are only a few of the new features that got me excited about the new Z6II and I hope I can adapt my workflow quickly and don’t have to think about it anymore during shooting after a while.

A German Rolling Stone magazine with the title image of the late Charlie Watts was on the table. I poured a glass of port wine in a tasting glass as my subject and lined it up with the elements on the carpet in the background. Just playing with autofocus response and higher ISO values. In Lightroom I darkened the foreground, brightened Charlie’s face, and worked with the shadows on the glass, all on separate masking layers. On the turntable played a record of the Rolling Stones… Reading the manual doesn’t have to be boring!

Nikon Z6II, FTZ adapter, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S,  @ 600mm, 1/800s, F/8, ISO 400, cropped to DX dimensions

The FTZ adapter arrived a few days later and I was really excited about how the Z6II would perform with the long Sigma lens. Last weekend I spent some time on the front porch, watching woodpeckers and other birds. There is no verdict possible in such a short time but I was impressed about sharpness and focus tracking on a fast moving bird. More testing has to be done…

Nikon Z6II, Nikkor Z 24-70, f/4 S lens,  @ 70mm, 1/320s, f/4, ISO 100

The woods here in the driftless area along the Mississippi River are not always attractive at this time of the year without snow on the ground. But the low “winter light” can still make a difference. This image was made during a short hike in the Swiss Valley Nature Preserve last Sunday. I found a spot with almost no dead wood and branches on the ground and as the sun came briefly through the clouds, well I had a photo that tells a story about the quality of that “winter light”…

WHITE SANDS

White Sands National Park, New Mexico, Sacramento Mountains in the background, Nikon D750 + Carl Zeiss Distagon 35mm f/2 ZF T*

As further south we drove in New Mexico last October as more grew my excitement about a destination we had pinpointed on our route. White Sands National Park preserves half of the worlds largest gypsum dunefield, located in the Tularosa Basin, between the San Andres and Sacramento Mountains. It is a fascinating landscape that offers so much for any photographer and nature lover.

Colors in the desert, Nikon D750 + Nikkor 70-200, f/4 , @70 mm

I took only two lenses with me while we walked and hiked in the dunefields during two late afternoon trips in the national park. Most of the time I had the Nikkor 70-200, f/4 on camera. Without switching lenses I was able to make quick decisions between scenes that included the curves and structures of the dunes or detail shots, like solitary trees or yucca plants. The other lens was the Carl Zeiss Distagon 35mm f/2 ZF T*, a manual focus lens that I love to employ in landscapes like White Sands NP because of its excellent sharpness and color rendering. The lens changes were not so critical as in other desert areas we have been before. Compared to other dune types the gypsum dunes remain moist even during a long drought. However, we avoided to go there during a sand storm the day between our two visits. Sand in the gear is bad news!

Dunefield near sunset, White Sands NP, New Mexico, Nikon D750 + Carl Zeiss Distagon 35mm f/2 ZF T*

Soaptree Yucca, Nikon D750 + Nikkor 70-200, f/4 , @130 mm

A DAY ABOVE THE DESERT

Rabbit Ears, 8,050 ft / 2454 m, Organ Mountain - Desert Peaks National Monument, New Mexico

I have been traveling for a few days last week but I didn’t forget about my promise to post some more pictures from our recent trip through New Mexico.

We pitched our tent on the east side of the Organ Mountains in “Organ Mountains - Desert Peaks National Monument” for a few days. The campground is located just below the “Rabbit Ears”, two magnificent summits. The facility overlooks the Tularosa Basin, home to White Sands National Park and White Sands Missile Range. A stormy day with very high winds was in the forecast and we decided to hike in the mountains near the campground. This high area is home to a number of plants and tree species not seen on the desert floor. Everything looked still very clear in the morning and we were blessed with gorgeous light on the Rabbit Ears above our tent during sunrise. Later during the day the harsh light makes you think twice before you hit the shutter release button of the camera…

Ornate Tree Lizard, a morning guest at the breakfast table

Prickly Pear Cacti, yucca, agave, grasses, and shrubs dominate the desert floor below the mountains

Most wildflowers were gone already but Rabbitbrush doesn’t look bad either between the rocks in higher altitude

Bizarre trees overlook the Tularosa Basin. A sandstorm hides the details of White Sands National Park and all the military installations of the missile range that surrounds it.

ORDINARY SITUATION, BUT THE LIGHT!

Downy Woodpecker, Little Maquoketa River Valley, Iowa

I actually thought to continue with some more photos from our recent trip through New Mexico but a few days ago I caught this picture of a Downy Woodpecker in front of the house and I like to share it with you. There is nothing special about this male woodpecker although they have a special place in my heart. The Downies are here in our woods all year long and we see about 6-7 coming to our suet feeders at the moment. The “woodpecker tree”, a dead cedar log that holds one of the feeders, is always in the front yard. So, what is so special? It is the gorgeous light of the setting sun that hits the tree and let the woodpecker stand out briefly, just moments before the night swallows the scene. I hope you don’t mind and enjoy. More from New Mexico next time, I promise…

MISSISSIPPI RIVER STORIES 2021 #10 - MIGRATION OF THE TUNDRA SWANS

Migrating Tundra Swans, Mississippi River, near Brownsville Minnesota

Right now one of the most interesting stories about fall migration happens here in the Mississippi Valley. Thousands of Tundra Swans migrate from the arctic tundra to the Chesepeake Bay at the Atlantic Ocean. On their way south they stop along the Mississippi River, and one of the best places to watch them is at a couple overlooks near Brownsville, Minnesota, just a few miles north of the Iowa border. The river is already freezing over in some of the backwaters. That means the swans may take off any day with more ice forming soon.

I have been at the Brownsville overlooks several times over the years with the camera and any time I ask myself, how can I tell a better story of this annual occurrence with my photos? It’s easy to take a wide angle lens, point it across the river, which is almost three miles wide at this place, and have thousands of wide dots in the picture. I do that for my own documentary purposes but those images do not make a good wildlife photo. 

So I try a little bit of everything, a single swan, a pair, or a family of Tundra Swans. It seems getting closer to a roosting place would help, but most of them are quite a bit away from the shore. On my way home I looked at a certain bay and got lucky. The bay was already frozen over and became a roosting place for the swans. With the sun disappearing fast behind the bluffs on our side of the river and the shadow line creeping forward across the ice, it was the right time to make a photo that tells a story about fall migration of the Tundra Swans.

All images: Nikon D750, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S, Sigma APO Teleconverter 1.4x EX DG, Induro GIT 404XL tripod, Induro GHB2 gimbal head (last photo without tripod)

BOSQUE DEL APACHE

Snow Geese, Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, NM

Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, a wetland in the New Mexico high desert, is known as a wintering place for ten-thousands of Sandhill Cranes, Snow and Ross’s Geese. More than 370 species of birds have been observed since 1981, making it a favorite destination for nature lovers and photographers year-round. We stopped there exactly a month ago, which was a little early. Large numbers of cranes and geese arrive late November and stay until the end of February according to several websites. However, a few hundred birds were present during our visit. Bosque del Apache NWR remains on my list of places to visit for a longer period of time. Now, since we scouted the area, I have a better idea what to expect and how to plan a trip back to these floodplains of the Rio Grande River.

Shooting with 600 mm at the height of the day and no clouds in the sky makes heat shimmer inevitable. Nothing is really sharp in this photo but it still tells a story.

WILDLIFE IN THE VALLES CALDERA

Valles Caldera, National Preserve, New Mexico

About 1.25 million years ago, a spectacular volcanic eruption created the 13-mile wide circular depression now known as the Valles Caldera. This National Preserve is known for its huge mountain meadows, abundant wildlife, and meandering streams. The area also preserves the homeland of ancestral native peoples and embraces a rich ranching history. (source: park website) 

The Valles Caldera is not far from Bandelier National Monument and we spent a couple evenings in the area, hoping to see some wildlife. A herd of grazing elk was in the distance, but too far away for any decent photo. Near the visitor center we were lucky to see this coyote roaming around. With its wonderful fur the animal blent well in between grass and sage brush. A prairie dog colony was not very far and the coyote knew probably where to find them.

A day earlier these two Common Ravens enjoyed the rays of the last sun on top of a metal structure. I always think it is the most difficult bird to photograph. Although they sat pretty still, finding the right exposure and a point to focus on their black feathers seems always to be a challenge. Well, they gave me plenty of time to try out different settings in the camera…

COLORFUL SANTA FE

Santa Fe Plaza - Fall colors right at downtown

Santa Fe, New Mexico is a wonderful city, with history, culture, and art everywhere you go. It is not difficult to find interesting subjects to photograph. As so often, there wasn’t enough time to explore everything but we had a very nice day, fully packed with sightseeing, looking at art, and of course, good food and drinks.

With more than 250 galleries to explore in Santa Fe you have a lot of choices. There is one I had on my list to visit since a long time. The Monroe Gallery of Photography specializes in 20th- and 21st-century photojournalism and humanist imagery and even if this is not your field in your own photography, it is a very inspiring place. Highly recommended!

Synonymous with New Mexican cuisine, chile peppers are part of New Mexican identity. These decorative clusters were hooked to each lamp post at the plaza.

This wedding wasn’t the only one we saw in town. The traditional march by the newlyweds and their guests through the streets to their venue is led by a Mariachi band.

New Mexico Museum of Art - The style of the building, called Pueblo Revival, uses modern construction materials made to look like the historic adobe churches found throughout the state's Pueblos.

Some souvenirs need a little more space in your luggage than others…

NATURAL CARVINGS

Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico protects Ancestral Pueblo archeological sites and a diverse and scenic landscape. Much of the area was covered with volcanic ash (the Bandelier Tuff) from an eruption of the Valles Caldera volcano 1.14 million years ago. Ancestral Puebloans broke up the firmer materials to use as bricks, while they carved out dwellings from the softer material. (source: Wikipedia) I was also intrigued by the natural carvings from wind and weather and with a little fantasy you can find interesting sculptures, like this tree shape, in the walls of Cañon de los Frijoles.

GUADALUPITA MESA

Guadalupita Mesa, Jemez Mountains, New Mexico

From our camp at Bandelier National Monument we explored other areas nearby. One of them was Jemez National Recreation Area in the Jemez Mountains with its valleys and canyons. As we drove back from Gilman Tunnels through the box canyon and along the Guadalupe River, the canyon suddenly widened and we had a grandios view at Guadalupita Mesa. I saw the swirling cloud above the mesa and knew immediately that this would work for a black and white photo. Sure, the colors in my RAW file are brilliant too, but the deep shadows and bright vertical rock bands made for a nice contrasting image.

BANDELIER NATIONAL MONUMENT

The village of Tyuonyi on the floor of Frijoles Canyon.

Bandelier National Monument protects over 33,000 acres of rugged but beautiful canyon and mesa country as well as evidence of a human presence here going back over 11,000 years.  Petroglyphs, dwellings carved into the soft rock cliffs, and standing masonry walls pay tribute to the early days of a culture that still survives in the surrounding communities. (source: park website).

We camped in the park for three nights but trails are open only from dawn to dusk. Beside history and culture the park offers also much for any nature lover. As we wanted to see as much as possible we couldn’t be choosy about the times and some of the photography had to be done, well, at the height of the day. I hope these five photos give you still an idea about the beauty of this place.

COLORS IN THE CANYON

Cimarron Canyon, New Mexico

While traveling in the fall the eyes are always open for some fall colors. One of the places we found them was Cimarron Canyon in the northern part of New Mexico. The light has a different quality in high altitude environments and although we have experienced it before, I’m still amazed about how deep the blue in the sky is rendered in certain situations.

These cliffs are cut by the Cimarron River and are formed from fine-grained porphyritic dacite sill, called Palisades Sill. A spectacular canyon!

LONG TIME ON MY LIST

San Francisco de Asís Mission Church, Ranchos de Taos, New Mexico, 2021

Years ago, when I saw for the first time Ansel Adam’s photo Saint Francis Church, Ranchos de Taos, from circa 1929, in one of his books, I put this great architectural monument on my mental list of things I wanted to photograph sometime in the future.

Construction of this church began in 1772 and it is an example of a New Mexico Spanish Colonial Church. The San Francisco de Asís Mission Church is a large Adobe structure with a cruciform plan and it has attracted many painters and photographers in the past. It is the rear side of the church with its massive buttress and its adobe plaster surface that inspired many artists, like Georgia O’Keeffe, Ansel Adams, or Paul Strand.

We visited the church on two different days and at different times and each provided its own challenges with lighting and keeping unwanted elements out of the frame. In fact I zoomed with my feet a lot and went relatively close to the structure and with the 16-35 mm lens on camera.

The photo above was made at our second visit during late afternoon. The side light gives the structure depth and the adobe plaster surface reveals its texture.

Ansel Adams describes the front aspects of the church in his book Examples: The Making of 40 photographs as being “moderately impressive” and points out that “the rear elevation defines the building as one of the great monuments of America”. I only can agree and also realized that the surrounding of the church on either side is probably a lot busier than it was more than 90 years ago when he created his famous photograph.

Photographed during late morning on our first visit. The only way to work from the rear side was to keep the powerful sun behind the building and use it as a backlight. I darkened the sky a bit and used the sun to outline the structure at the top. The Saint Francis Church is a wonderful subject to photograph, but as so often, back at home and in front of the computer I find out what I missed and want to go back again…