HISTORY IMAGINED

Missouri River between Nebraska and South Dakota

It’s hard to believe that when someone travels across the fields, grasslands, and prairie here in the Midwest that there was only one valuable photo opportunity during the whole week. Sometimes things just don’t line up the way we photographers like…

Coming from Nebraska I crossed the Missouri River into South Dakota yesterday afternoon. Well, I guess it was photographers ”luck”, with not a single cloud in the sky (sigh!!!).

While standing there I imagined the time before the mass slaughtering of bison during the 1870s, long before this modern bridge was built, and bison crossed the shallow river at this place. Maybe the people that owned the land, the Native Americans who depended on hunting bison and lived along the Missouri River, may have enjoyed the same view from this hill above the river banks. Who knows?

Another historical moment happened already in late summer of 1804, when the famous Lewis and Clarke Expedition came up the river by boats during their journey to the Pacific Northwest. Their over 8000-mile expedition trip for the US government took two years, four month and ten days. When this expedition moved upstream, most of the difficulties were still laying ahead of them.

VISIT DURING ”MOON WHEN THE GRASS IS UP”

View from Sage Creek Rim Road at sunset, Badlands National Park, South Dakota

The month with daylight longer than in any other one comes slowly but surely to an end. The Sioux called this period of time ”Strawberry Moon”, ”Moon of Making Fat”, or ”Moon When The Grass is Up” (source: Saga of the Sioux, by Dwight John Zimmerman). The visit in Badlands National Park, one of my favorite places to be, was certainly a highlight in June for me. In my younger years I read a lot of books about the Native Americans that called this place home. Their stories about dealing with all aspects of nature, surviving in all kinds of weather, and hunting for bison and other wildlife to make a living have always fascinated me. The tragedy how they were conquered by white people still touches me and this is one of the reasons why I feel very emotional when I’m out west in these places. This time I finally was able to visit the site of the infamous Wounded Knee Massacre, just south of Badlands National Park.

Although more than 130 years ago there was certainly no road here on top of the Sage Creek Rim, but I’m sure the view to the southeast wasn’t much different for a hunter or warrior who came up here.

STILL LOVE THE RED FILTER

Approaching thunderstorm, Badlands National Park, South Dakota

If you camp out west in a small tent it is mandatory to have always an eye on the weather. This approaching thunderstorm turned out relatively harmless. It came with a little bit of lightning, not even close, and some rain for the night. Letting this opportunity to make a photo pass by was not an option. The question was, how to capture the drama in the sky?

Back in the days of black & white film a red filter in front of the lens was the way to go. We made the click and then waited for the results until the film was developed. Today with a mirrorless camera things are a lot easier. While shooting always in RAW format, all what it takes is to set the camera to B&W and include the settings for a red filter (or any other setting you may have in mind). In the viewfinder or on screen in the back of the camera we can then evaluate the results immediately and decide if it matches our vision for the final image. If not, we can always revert to the color data embedded in the RAW file and let our creativity go in a different direction.

The results for this photo match pretty much the settings I had used already in the camera. I like the drama a red filter can produce. Very little is tweaked in post process on the computer at home. The landscape doesn’t take the stage, just gets a hint of light, while the clouds are clearly the subject that tells the story of this evening ten days ago in the Badlands.

THE CUTENESS BONUS

Young Black-tailed Prairie Dogs, Badlands National Park, South Dakota

At every visit in Badlands National Park, South Dakota I have photographed Black-tailed Prairie Dogs but never the babies when they were the first days above the ground. The little ones are absolutely adorable and I enjoyed spending the early morning with them a week ago. The little pups remain up to seven weeks below ground and that’s why I probably never saw them during the month of May in other years. Prairie dogs are cute no matter what, but having their pups in the picture gives it an extra cuteness bonus…

I shot most of the time with the 1.4 teleconverter attached to the SIGMA 150-600, giving me a focal length up to 850 mm. For some pictures a slight cosmetic crop was applied.

All images: Nikon Z6II, Nikon FTZ adapter, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S, Sigma APO Teleconverter 1.4x EX DG

SONGBIRDS IN THE BADLANDS

Western Meadowlark

Hands down, spring is the best season to watch songbirds, either during their time of migration or while they are in the mood for mating. Badlands National Park has a great variety of songbirds and I was able to add three new species to the photo library during our recent visit.

We had no problems finding Western Meadowlarks, they were present in abundance. This very vocal bird can be found along the road sides in the grass, between sagebrush, or in the early morning perched on a traffic sign or fence post and singing its heart out.

Lark Bunting

Probably not my best photo of a bird but this male Lark Bunting was a first sighting for us. It was part of a larger group, males and females, and the males were in their full breeding plumage. The Lark Bunting is the only sparrow that completely changes between plain winter plumage and distinctive breeding colors (source: iBird Pro app).

Vesper Sparrow

Perched on the same fence as the Lark Bunting were a couple Vesper Sparrows. I have probably seen this bird before but it was the first time ever that I photographed this species.

Lark Sparrow

Coming back from a hike into the backcountry we found a number of Lark Sparrows feeding on the ground at the campsite. They walk on the ground rather than hop, unless during courtship. They are in favor of areas with bare open ground and scattered bushes, habitats that are more common in the West and Midwest than in the East of the country. The Badlands offer such habitats and it is not difficult to find them at this time of the year.

Black-and-white Warbler

When I saw briefly this bird gleaning insects from the bark of a tree, I knew immediately that I had a Black-and-white Warbler in front of the lens. I have seen them here in eastern Iowa before a couple times and they forage nuthatch-like on tree trunks. I was actually after another warbler species between some thick brushwood, probably an Orange-crowned Warbler, but I never got a real sharp shot. The photo of the Black-and-white Warbler makes me happy the same way!

Spotted Towhee

This photo was made between the same brushwood as the one before. I moved carefully with my tripod to find an open spot between all the branches of the tree and without scaring this beautiful bird away. When the click was made I thought I had an Eastern Towhee in front of the lens, a bird we can see occasionally here in our area. But the Eastern Towhee does not appear that far west and so it had to be a Spotted Towhee. From the front side they look almost identical. This was another first sighting and a welcome addition to my bird photo library.

I wish time wasn’t such a limiting factor for shooting wildlife in and around Badlands National Park. Two days are hardly enough to pursue all photographic ideas I have in mind. But with every visit we know the area a little better and that makes it easier to find the best spots during a next visit.

NATURE CLICKS #519 - LONG-BILLED CURLEW

Long-billed Curlew, Badlands National Park, South Dakota

I have seen the Long-billed Curlew only along the coast in Southern California before, always during winter time, and it was a little bit of a surprise when I found them last spring in South Dakota. The Badlands have a lot of grassland to offer, with a few marshy spots here and there, and they are actually a perfect breeding ground for this large sandpiper. It is an uncommon bird and to my surprise we found them again a week ago at the same area of the national park. With their extraordinary long bill they are able to to reach ahead and pick up insects or to probe just below the surface of mud or soil. They also feed on burrowing wolf spiders in South Dakota, with the curve even matching the general shape of a spider burrow (source: sdakotabirds.com).

Distance was closer than last year but still not enough for an uncropped image. We watched them using the car as our “mobile blind”. In these wide open grasslands you have no chance to approach them by going on foot. There is also a lot of other birds and critters to watch and the last thing we wanted to do is disturbing any of them. Overall we saw five curlews and it was highly interesting to watch them foraging after their migration from the south.

NO BADLANDS WITHOUT BISON

The question that came in was, why do you go back for more photography to an area you have been many times before (I was in the Badlands 8 times, Joan even more). After being six times in Badlands National Park, always in the fall and between 2005 and 2020, I just wanted to be there during spring time. Last year it was my first attempt. The story of spring can be told in many ways and making an image of a newborn bison calf is the photo I have in mind for this part of the season. While in autumn the herd of bison would always be around the Sage Creek Wilderness, near the campground we always stay. They are somewhere else in the backcountry during spring time. With other words, I have not seen or photographed a new born calf yet. Main reason is that during just one weekend you can’t hike into the backcountry with such a time limit.

Well, so how can we tell the story about spring with just a bison male in the frame? We saw many bison bulls , just by themselves or in small groups. It always amazes me, how can an animal eating nothing but grass and develop such a muscular body? And yes, there is power behind it. This is not just a grazing cow, bison can employ high speed if they feel threatened. Maintaining a safe distance to the critter is mandatory and it is the law! Even during my limited time out west over the years, I have seen some very, very stupid things people do just to get a snapshot of a bison. I can get excited talking about it…!!

So what else tells the story of spring? You probably have recognized the winter fur of the bison, shed off piece by piece. How do we get this all in one picture? First the eye of the bison bull had to be sharp. Blurry eye means, pic goes to the trash can. With a very narrow depth of focus (@ 600 mm, f/6.3), I figured out increasing local contrast on parts of the fur (which is not 100% in focus) may help to tell the story, while still keeping the focus point on the eye and horn of the bison. Not a perfect image of this resident out west, but I think the story of a male American Bison, roaming in the Badlands, at this time of the year, can be told.

Nikon Z6II, Nikon FTZ adapter, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S,   @ 600 mm, 1/1000 s, f/6.3, ISO 800

THE GESTURE!

Black-tailed Prairie Dog performing the “jump-yip” call. Badlands NP, South Dakota

With all the pictures of Black-tailed Prairie dogs I made over the years there was still one missing, a photo of our favorite gesture. The famous “jump-yip” call can communicate alertness, territorial defense, or can be an “all-clear” signal. (source: https://www.prairiedoghoogland.com/vocalizations )

We just love watching the social behavior of prairie dogs and in the Badlands the numbers seem to increase with every visit we made since 2005. There is no problem to find them in Badlands NP and the photographer can be choosy about location and direction of light.

The “jump-yip” call lasts maybe a second or even less and you never know when they do it. However, a fast frame rate is the key to catch the action. The Nikon Z6II delivers 10 frames per second with my personal settings applied (14 bit depth NEF (RAW), shooting mode: Continuous High, extended). Shooting with 12 bit depth would even allow 14 frames per second, but I do not like to change and rather have more color data in my pixels.

Nikon Z6II, Nikon FTZ adapter, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S, Induro GIT 404XL tripod, Induro GHB2 gimbal head,   @ 600 mm, 1/1250 s, f/6.3, ISO 400

NATURE CLICKS #518 - BURROWING OWL

Burrowing Owl, Badlands National Park, South Dakota

Just because the burrowing Owl is diurnal, means active during the day while most other owl species are nocturnal, it still remains a challenge to get close to one of them. It has been a thrill again during our visit in Badlands National Park to see and photograph this small owl. They find good places for nesting in abandoned burrows of prairie dogs, who are plentiful in many areas of the Badlands.

Two spots where I found the Burrowing Owl last year didn’t seem to have them this spring but we found several owls at other places. This photo is definitely my favorite picture of the whole trip. We were cruising with slow speed by car and looking for all kinds of wildlife, when I saw suddenly this beautiful owl sitting on a small ridge right above Sage Creek Road. This dusty gravel road connects the remote west entrance of the park with the famous Badlands Loop Road and with the town of Wall, South Dakota. While you may find some Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep along the Loop Road, for all the other critters and birds Sage Creek Road is the place to be, unless you hike into the backcountry.

Nikon Z6II, Nikon FTZ adapter, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S,   @ 600 mm, 1/640 s, f/6.3, ISO 200

NATURE CLICKS #504 - BLACK-BILLED MAGPIE

In the Badlands, South Dakota, the Black-billed Magpie can be found at the eastern border of its residence. With other words, we don’t see this bird here in Iowa. I have photographed the Black-billed Magpie out west before, but the best spot has been always in the Sage Creek Valley of Badlands National Park. They are a little skittish but may give you the chance to frame a shot if you keep calm and don’t move too fast around. I shot plenty of photos of the magpie on the ground, its natural feeding space, and a couple pictures of the bird sitting in a tree. However, my favorite shot from the trip back in early May is the one above, made right in the campground at one of the posts that mark each campsite.

Black-billed Magpie, Sage Creek Valley, Badlands NP, South Dakota

The critical observer may ask, why do they make such big posts for just putting the numbers of a campsite on it? That’s because of the bison. The bulls like to visit the area and as soon they find something vertical, they start rubbing their skin and massive body on it. These poles are buried deep in the ground and still may become loose over time… The magpies love them as a perch. By the way, it’s cousin, the Yellow-billed Magpie is only found in California’s Central Valley and the adjacent foothills. A bird I haven’t seen yet, but hopefully will do sometimes in the future…

NATURE CLICKS #500 - ROCKY MOUNTAIN BIGHORN SHEEP

Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep, Badlands NP, South Dakota

I still have a few images from my recent trip to Badlands National Park I like to share with you. It wasn’t difficult to find the small herd of Bighorn Sheep this time. The ewes and immature sheep enjoyed the fresh grass at the edge of a parking lot at one of the overlooks. I heard that someone had seen a newborn lamb but I didn’t see any.

Three big rams were dozing peacefully together at a different location, near the rim of a canyon. The peak of the rut is in November, that’s when “dozing in the sun” is definitely over…

NATURE CLICKS #499 - HORNED LARK

Horned Lark, Badlands National Park, South Dakota

I wished this photo was made in Eastern Iowa. I have seen the beautiful Horned Lark a lot less during the last few years here in the Mississippi Valley. However, I had no problems finding them in Badlands National Park. They are mostly foraging on the ground in grassland, but I don’t mind a shot when the lark is perched on a barbed wire and the light is just right…

Nikon D750, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S, Sigma APO Teleconverter 1.4x EX DG

NATURE CLICKS #498 - BLACK-TAILED PRAIRIE DOG

Black-tailed Prairie Dog, Sage Creek Valley, Badlands NP

There is no visit in the Badlands without reporting about one of the funniest critters on the planet, the Prairie Dogs. It seems like their populations has multiplied since we visited the park for the first time in 2005. Since a few years one of the prairie dog towns is right in Sage Creek Campground, the primitive but more remote campground of the two in the Badlands. The mounds are between the tents and their tunnel system can be right under your tent. The burrows help these little rodents to control their body temperature in winter and during summer. Members of a family group interact through oral contact or "kissing" and grooming one another. They do not perform these behaviors with prairie dogs from other family groups. [source: Wikipedia}

The key for a good picture is getting low to the ground. Shooting from the car is sometimes not low enough. Whenever possible I try to get at least one of the black-tipped tails in the picture, the feature that gave this species of ground squirrels its name.

All images: Nikon D750, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S

NATURE CLICKS #497 - BURROWING OWL

Burrowing Owl, Badlands National Park, South Dakota

I was writing recently about the bison in Badlands National Park here in the blog but other species have been on my radar as well. The Burrowing Owl is always among them, and I can tell you, it’s not a bird you may find easily. It is a small, long legged owl that is active during the day, while most other owls are nocturnal. They nest in underground burrows, and in Badlands National Park it is most of the time a den in a prairie dog town. It took us more than ten years to find this owl in the wild and after our first encounter in 2018 I was very happy to find two new, but different locations during my visit a week ago. An abundant burrow isn’t easy to spot among all the active dens populated by thousands of prairie dogs but as soon I see a bird flying somewhere low to the ground, I have the binoculars up. The Burrowing Owl feeds on larger arthropods, but also on birds and small mammals, like mice, small rabbits, ground squirrels, and others.

NATURE CLICKS #496 - LOGGERHEAD SHRIKE

Loggerhead Shrike, Badlands National Park, South Dakota

The Loggerhead Shrike is a bird we normally wouldn’t see here in Northeast Iowa and the only time I had seen one before was in Wupatki National Monument in Arizona a few years ago. This sighting in the early morning along Sagecreek Road in the Badlands a week ago got me all excited. Distance was a little bit of a problem but I didn’t want to miss this opportunity and made a few clicks anyway. Hence that the image is heavily cropped this time.

The shrike feeds on vertebrates and invertebrates and they hunt from low perches or catch prey often on the ground. The bird is known for the fact that they maintain a food larder by impaling their prey on thorns and barbed wire, or tuck them between the fork of a branch.

Photos like the two above leave of course lots of room for improvement. It was one of the brief moments when a decision had to be made, either just watch the bird and keep the camera down or make the click. I decided for the latter and hope the crop tool in post process doesn’t need to be employed again next time a Loggerhead Shrike presents as the subject.

Nikon D750, Sigma 150-600mm / f5-6.3 DG OS HSM S