NUCLEAR MISSILE SILO


Today’s post is not so much about the endeavor to make a high quality photo but about our history and the desire to learn about it. Just outside of Badlands National Park is the Minuteman Missile National Historical Site. Part of it, and just a few miles down the Interstate to the west, is the former launching site and silo, Delta-09, for a Minuteman II nuclear missile.

Minuteman Missile National Historic Site was established in 1999 to preserve two Minuteman II Intercontinental Ballistic Missile (ICBM) sites: Launch Control Facility Delta-01 and a corresponding underground Launch Control Center and Launch Facility (Missile Silo) Delta-09. Minuteman Missile is the first national park unit specifically designated to commemorate the Cold War. From 1963 until the early 1990s, Missile Silo Delta-09 contained a fully operational Minuteman Missile, bearing a 1.2 megaton nuclear warhead. The Delta-09 missile silo was one of 150 spread across western South Dakota. In total there were 1,000 Minuteman's deployed from the 1960's into the early 1990’s. In 1991 as the Cold War was coming to an end, the Strategic Arms Reduction Treaty (START) was signed by US President George H.W. Bush and Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev. Both sides agreed to dramatically reduce their nuclear arms. The missile in the silo is unarmed today but it was armed with a W-56 warhead of 1.2 megatons of explosive force. That destructive power is equivalent to one-third of all the bombs used during World War II, including both atomic bombs. (source: National Park Service brochure and website)

Joan and I use every opportunity to go into visitor centers or museums beside the nature adventures during our trips. This one left quite an impression on us and delivered lots of information to talk about and to digest. From a human standpoint, what a waste of resources on both sides of the political landscape and understandable only in the context of history. After I was discharged from the military more than 36 years ago in East Germany, I would never have dreamed about that I ever would look into the silo of an American nuclear missile…

Everybody can probably make these two shots with their smartphones. The glass that covers the silo these days returns some reflections but we get the idea. The second photo shows the glass covered silo and in the foreground we can see the steel and concrete cover of the Ultra High Frequency antenna that allowed to launch the missile from an airborne command in case the control centers were destroyed already by a Soviet nuclear attack...

During our ongoing travels we discovered two more former missile silos. We would not have recognized it as such in the middle of grassland and prairie without the visit at the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site…

NATURE CLICKS #307 - AMERICAN BISON


Nikon D750, Sigma 50-500mm / f4.5-6.3 APO DG HSM

Lets talk about some big animals today. The American Bison is without any doubt the most iconic animal in the American west. They ones roamed the plaines and prairies by the millions but less than 1,000 bisons survived the massive killings in the 19th century by the white men, and today’s herds are the descendants of those few. We read, I believe in one of the information centers, that about 250,000 bisons live toady in private and public herds in North America.

Badlands National Park has a herd and we always found it in the Sage Creek area, not far from the campground. Except for the mating season the older bulls roam more solitary or in small groups together. Because of their beautiful fur and massive appearance they are a great subject for wildlife photography.

Making a photo has to be done with utmost caution. Don’t be fooled by their relatively slow movements. They can move very quickly and will outrun you easily with a speed up to 50 km/h. We have seen videos of bisons throwing people around within the blink of an eye, and every time we have been out west during the last ten years, we saw someone walking right up to a buffalo with a camera or smartphone in their hand. Well, stupidity never dies…

Most of the time we used the car as a blind and the 500 mm focal length of the lens maintains a distance that the critter will accept and not feel threatened. However, the most important thing is to always keep an eye on the animal and watch its behavior.

This photo of a male bison bull, laying in the grass, was made after a long day out in the field, driving around and searching for critters. I love the shot of this older bull, with mud in its face, burs sticking to its fur, and a horn that tells the story of heavy use…

ENDLESS SKY


This is the tent of a campsite neighbor at Sage Creek Campground in Badlands National Park. We had of course no control over the brightness of the light in their tent but I gave it a try anyway and included the sky with all its stars. The campground is in a remote location but there is unfortunately still some light pollution from the town of Wall, known for the “World famous Wall Drug store”.

If I remember this right, we had only two or three nights without seeing the stars during our trip through the Dakotas, but in the Badlands we probably enjoyed it the most.

A black background may help to view this image, and if you click on the photo you can see all the stars that were recorded by the sensor in the camera.

NATURE CLICKS #306 - COYOTE


Badlands National Park, South Dakota

The howling of a Coyote is one of our favorite nature sounds and even here in the woods of eastern Iowa we can hear it at night quite often. Seeing one, not so much, they know how to hide during the day. The open prairie and grasslands in South and North Dakota make it more likely to see one and it took only one day until we saw the first Coyote in perfect light of the setting sun. What a thrill to see this guy hunting for another critter, maybe a mouse or chipmunk.

All images: Nikon D750, Sigma 50-500mm / f4.5-6.3 APO DG HSM

NATURE CLICKS #305 - BLACK-BILLED MAGPIE


Nikon D750, Nikkor 16-35mm / f4

The Lakota knew this landscape as mako sica and early French trappers called it les mauvaises terres a traverser. Both means “bad lands”. However, if you take some time to visit, the Badlands will reveal themselves as a landscape with great biological diversity and you will find out that it is full of life.

Nikon D750, Sigma 50-500mm / f4.5-6.3 APO DG HSM

The Black-billed Magpie is a great looking bird. We have seen them in every part of the western half in South and North Dakota during our trip. That doesn’t mean we had a lot of photo opportunities. Quite often they flew away as soon we stopped the car and left us no time for pointing a lens at them. They built nests with domes on top and unlike most birds, they can use scent to locate food.

NATURE CLICKS #304 - ROCKY MOUNTAIN BIGHORN SHEEP


Nikon D750, Sigma 50-500mm / f4.5-6.3 APO DG HSM, tripod, gimbal head

Joan and I spent quite some time searching for, watching, and photographing wildlife during our trip in the Dakotas. Since it was our third time in Badlands National Park we had already a pretty good idea where to look for critters and this time we had again some wonderful encounters and joyful experiences. For those of you who like to go there sometime here is the tip, try Sage Creek Rim Road, the gravel road that leads to the primitive Sage Creek Campground. You may find wildlife along the Badlands Loop Road, where most of the tourists travel as well, but it isn’t always easy to park the car and work the critters with your camera along this busy road.

Finding and getting close to the Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep was on my bucket list for this trip, and boy, we have not been disappointed!! We were still a little early for the rut and these two rams were standing peacefully side by side, watching the herd and having an eye on the photographer.

Nikon D750, Sigma 50-500mm / f4.5-6.3 APO DG HSM

This is one of my favorite images during this trip. It shows the herd moving along the grassy slopes beside Sage Creek Rim Road and leaves no doubt about where this image has been made. The avid reader of my blog knows that I often like to go for the environmental shot and because of the typical landscape in the background, there is very little doubt that this was shot in the Badlands, South Dakota. It would have been a “butt-shot-only” image, except for the wonderful pose these two young rams put on display. They are too young to play a role in the upcoming rut but they like to test their power against each other.

Nikon D750, Sigma 50-500mm / f4.5-6.3 APO DG HSM

When the bighorn sheep are comfortable with your presence they stick their head into the grass and do the “sheep thing”, eating and munching. Getting the shot may need a lot of patience. Remember, while eating every muscle in their face is in motion and the head moves around all the time. It is hard to get a sharp shot and the prairie grass covers quite often part of the head. The terrain in the Badlands sometimes allows you to shoot from below or at least at eye level with the critter. Waiting for the brief moments when the head comes up, either to watch out for a potential predator, or like in this case, for just chewing on a taller piece of prairie grass, can lead to the picture you have in mind. More to come...

BACK TO THE BADLANDS


Nikon D750, Nikkor 16-35mm / f4

No, I didn’t go back literally to the Badlands, South Dakota, I just like to continue my little stories about the landscapes and wildlife in the Dakotas last October. 

The rock layers of the Badlands have been built over millions of years. The highest peaks are “only” 28 - 30 million years old and belong to the Sharp Formation, while the oldest rocks down below we can see today as a result of erosion are roughly 70 million years old. One of the most colorful formations are the 67 million years old Yellow Mounds. After the sea drained away, the black ocean mud was exposed to surface weathering. The upper layers of this mud developed into a yellow soil called Yellow Mounds. The gray formation above is the Chadron Formation and these sediments were deposited about 34 - 37 million years ago. Interestingly there is a gap of 30 million years in the geological record in between, the result of non-deposit and erosion. Excuse my excursion but I think this is just mind-boggling… 😆

Nikon D750, Nikkor 24-120mm / f4

The photographer could care less (but he doesn’t) and the Yellow Mounds formation is just perfect to tell a visual story about the geology and age of the Badlands. As I mentioned in an earlier post, we had a few rain drops that day and it was a blessing for working the landscape with the camera. You can’t get these colors on a day with bald blue sky and sunlight that burns the hell out of everything. Every focal length, wide or close, seemed to work and could lead to an image. It was just a matter to answer the question, what’s my subject, before pressing the shutter button…😉

NATURE CLICKS #303 - COMMON RAVEN


You won’t believe how long it took to make this photo of a Common Raven in a parking lot at one of the overlooks in Grand Canyon National Park. I did not have a long lens with me and capturing some details of the black feathers in the harsh light was quite a challenge. I shot this image with the 24-120 after the raven landed on a pick-up truck and faced the sun. In situations like that you can really learn that the camera can handle only about 5-6 steps of light while the human eye is able to see more than twice as that. The raven tried to impress a mate and didn’t mind my close presence. I wished I had a more natural background but at least I managed not to have any other car in the frame. This was the first time that I had a chance to make a photo of a Common Raven (we don’t have them here in Iowa) and so I’m ok with this image. It sure leaves room for improvement…

STAY LATE, BE REWARDED


Nikon D750, Nikkor 16-35, f/4 @ 35 mm, 1/160 s, f/11, ISO 200

The question is, how can we beat the harsh light at the Grand Canyon in Arizona when there is no single cloud expected for the whole day and be finally rewarded with some good images? It is simple, be there before sunrise or during sunset. The first didn’t work for me, my hotel was too far away to make it, but I probably would have kicked myself later, if I had left the canyon too early. There are many overlooks and locations that are good for shooting during sunset. My choice was Navajo Point near the east entrance of the National Park. The Colorado River changes direction in this area, you have a deep view into the tribal lands of the Navajo nation, all the way to the Vermilion Cliffs at the horizon, and the watch tower at the Desert View visitor center sits on top of the steep canyon walls. I watched the shadows creeping up the canyon walls facing to the west and tried many different focal lengths from 16 mm to 35 mm. Not using a tripod made me actually very flexible (my luggage space was limited and I left it at home) and so I shot from a variety of different angles and positions, with and without foreground. The setting sun is not in this image, but the long shadows that quickly took possession of every sunny spot tell the story about a gorgeous evening at the Grand Canyon.

OVERDUE VISIT


Grand Canyon, Arizona

I interrupt my stories about our trip to the Dakotas for a more actual photo. I’m stitching two business trips together into one right now. I’m in Arizona since Wednesday, spent the weekend here, and will will leave for Denver Colorado tomorrow morning.

The Saturday was used for a more than overdue trip to the Grand Canyon. I flew over it many times in the past but never had been actually in the National Park. I wished the big storm area that came through here last Thursday would have waited a couple more days but this is history and all what was left was a boring bald blue sky with not a single cloud in the air. Well, I deal with what is presented to me when it comes to weather and try to get the best out of it.

The Grand Canyon is magnificent and no words or photo can completely describe its beauty and vastness. 

I took a lot of pictures with the wide angle lens, the Nikkor 16-35, f/4. I love this lens for its incredible sharpness and relative small size and I have really embraced it during our trip in the Dakotas. It is a great tool for an outdoor photographer that needs to pack small and light and wants to come home with sharp images. More to come…

NATURE CLICKS #302 - BLACK-TAILED PRAIRIE DOG


In almost every area we visited during our trip in South and North Dakota we found Black-tailed Prairie Dogs. Prairie dogs are highly social critters and just watching them in their large colonies can be fun and entertainment for many hours. I shot a lot of pictures and can promise you this will not be my last post about them. They have a system of using body language and sounds to warn and inform each other about a possible predator or whatever is approaching their so called prairie dog towns. Many of our photos were taken from the ”mobile blind”, our car, and that seemed to work very well quite often.

RAIN AND COLORS


Nikon D750, Nikkor 16-35mm / f4

We set up our first camp for a few days in Badlands National Park, South Dakota. We were there before twice in the last ten years, but always only for a brief stop on the way to Yellowstone. This time we wanted to explore the park and the surrounding grasslands much more and also spend time with the wildlife. The name Badlands suggests nothing really good but I can tell you, colors, landforms, and wildlife will surprise the visitor with every turn you take.

Nikon D750, Nikkor 24-120mm / f4

From our previous visits we knew that landscape photography can be very tricky during the day because the harsh light mutes the colors quite often. We were lucky on our second day that a few rain drops came down, not much, but just enough to bring out the colors of layered sediments, volcanic ashes, and of the prairie grass and plants. The Badlands are a place of extremes between summer and winter and sometimes it is hard to imagine that much can exist there. However, the biological diversity is rich and wildlife abounds. But more about this later...

TRAVELS THROUGH THE DAKOTAS


Bison at sunset - Badlands National Park, South Dakota

Hello everyone! Yes, we are back from a 19 days long vacation trip in the Dakotas. We explored the grasslands, wilderness, and mountains of South and North Dakota this time. There were plenty of opportunities to see and watch wildlife and many stunning moments while visiting beautiful landscapes. Most of the time we pitched our little tent right where the action takes place, where the light unfolds, and where the only sound you may hear at night is the howling of the coyotes or the hooting of an owl. Of course, a “few” clicks were made along the roads and trails, and if this stirred up your interest, please stay tuned during the next weeks. 😊

MISSISSIPPI RIVER STORIES 2015 #9


All images: Nikon D750, Nikkor 16-35mm / f4

Today’s photos are still from my visit at the Deere Marsh last Friday night and both tell a totally different story. The first one is about migration of the Red-winged blackbird. They gather by the thousands and fly south, a sure indicator that winter will approach soon.

The second photo was made only a few minutes before the first one and at a first glimpse there is not much going on in the marsh or on the Mississippi in the background. But wait, if you look down at the bottom beside the shadow of my left leg, there is Cooper’s shadow. As so often he sits and waits until I’m done clicking and fiddling with the camera. Most of the time I can concentrate on the photography or on the critters we are watching. I don’t have to worry about all the time what Cooper is doing. He waits patiently. We couldn’t ask for a better dog! 😊

NATURE CLICKS #301 - JUVENILE SNAPPING TURTLE


During my usual “photo-and-dog-walk” in the evening I meet quite often other people that enjoy being outside as much as we do. Today I was at the Deere Marsh, the wetland area at the Mississippi River behind the big John Deere factory north of Dubuque, Iowa. I met a couple with their two dogs and we had a nice conversation about nature and other things. Even our dogs were friendly to each other. They went ahead towards the parking lot while I still tried to capture some pictures during sunset. After a while the couple called me over because they had discovered a bunch of young Snapping Turtles that obviously were crossing the trail on their way from a turtle nest to the water. I guess we can call this little one “cute” under consideration that the shell length of an adult snapper can exceed 15 inches (38 cm) and they can weigh up to 40 pounds (18.2 kg).

Looking into my photo archive back home I found out that I watched and photographed my first young Snapping Turtle eight and a half years ago at almost exactly the same place. This area has undergone quite some brutal construction changes for the sake of wetland restoration 2-3 years ago. It was hard to believe during that time that we would ever see a real recovery. We saw a lot of prairie wildflowers coming up this year, new young willows started growing (good for small birds), I saw Sandhill Cranes, herons, pelicans, and other birds, and todays encounter feeds my hope that this area is finally on a good way…